Everything is temporary – why I won’t be getting a tattoo and five other things we’re avoiding on our gap year…

I have a list as long as my arm of things I want to and will do during my eternity leave: learn to kitesurf; do a handstand at Everest Base Camp; learn to play the guitar; write this blog; go ski-touring with Tiggy; have a lot of fun with friends old and new; keep an open, curious and playful mind – and so it goes on.

I’m also conscious that there are a barrel load of cliches that I could fall into if I’m not careful.  I’m sure you know what I’m mean – middle aged woman goes travelling and comes back having found the Meaning of Life whilst cleaning toilets ten days into a silent retreat at an ashram in India (with humble apologies to any of the toilet-cleaning ashram goers amongst you).

Now, this list of ‘Shan’ts, Can’ts and Won’ts’ is clearly completely and utterly subjective – one girl’s trash is another girl’s treasure and so forth.   So do take the list below with a pinch of proverbial salt, although I hereby grant you complete permission to keep me honest on them.

  1. Get a tattoo
    I’m writing this on the assumption that you, like me, are a staunch believer that David Beckham is one of the most beautiful people on the planet. But even he, I fear, is in danger of becoming over-inked. (And isn’t it interesting how VB appears to be zapping hers as fast as DB is adding his.)
    It’s not that I’m against tattoos, far from it in fact, some are undoubtedly incredible works of art.  It’s just whenever I think of middle aged women and tattoos, images of Pamela Anderson’s barbed wire, Cheryl Cole/Tweedy/Whatever’s bottom and Sporty Spice’s crucifix all pop into my mind.  Please don’t tell me that none of them have had buyer’s remorse.  I change my mind five minutes after a cut and blow dry, so heaven only knows what I’d be like after acquiring a permanent fixture.
    I’m also totally squeamish, a complete wimp and hate the sight of blood. Ergo, I think I’m pretty safe on this one.  I had a lovely gold foil one in Ibiza once which lasted a perfectly perfunctory three days.

    Everything is temporary
  2. Hire a vespa
    And ride it in shorts, a t-shirt and flip flops. I had a Vespa once, it was lovely; in dashing plumb (I know, surprising, not pink), with a top box and hand warmers (I feel the cold).   I used it to commute when I worked in north London. At the time it was very practical, my daily scoot took 25 minutes compared to 40 minutes on my bicycle and an hour on the tube – it was a no brainer really.
    I haven’t ridden it since 2008 after I fell off going three miles per hour on the pavement outside my house and hurt my leg. And there it stayed, mainly functioning as an adventure playground for spiders, until it was uprooted to star in a Jack Wills autumn window display.
    So, after  an ‘ouchy’ in the form of a badly bruised thigh, I’m Captain Sensible when it comes to all things scootie now.  Bare skin and gravelly tarmac at speed are never going to be friends, and for us, it’s two feet and four paws or four wheels on terra firma all the way.
    Dog in Jack Wills landrover
  3. Obsess over what I miss from England and whinge about foreign alternatives
    The only allowable exceptions are: Tetley tea (I’m safe on this one as I bought 500 bags with me) and my friends (again, also safe as that’s what Facebook, What’s App and Insta are for).  Although I do like a splash of milk with my tea – WTF is it with foreign milk?Cup of tea in Tarifa
  4. Try to be ‘cool’
    I’m 45 years old, I’m really quite square and I’ve never, ever been cool. Personally I don’t think there’s anything more cringe than someone trying to be something they’re not.
    Examples in my list include: braiding my hair, taking hallucinogenic drugs, getting anything other than my ears pierced and wearing any of the below:
    a) dungarees
    b) indigenous knitwear from Nepal
    or
    c) tie-dyed, floaty kaftans from Tarifa (with accompanying jangling necklaces, bracelets, toe rings etc).
  5. Buying lots of stuff
    I love shopping – especially clothes and shoes – and even after a huge clear out I probably still have more anyone really should and certainly more than I need. I really hope my god-daughter grows up to have size five and a half feet, otherwise there’s a beautiful collection of eye watering-ly expensive footwear going to go to waste.  So, my golden rule is – only one thing a month – no local tut and no going over my weekly budget.  The only exceptions are purchases genuinely required for my pursuits – kitesurfing, hiking in the Himalayas, guitar paraphernalia and ski gear.

This is just my list, I’m sure everyone’s would be different.  Have I missed anything? Remember, at the end of the day,  the world’s going to judge you no matter what you do, so you may as well live life the way you want to…

Choose happy!

Love, Sophie, Tiggy and The Beast X
P.s Paws for thought
Tiggy has added two criteria: no going on the beach when the Sand in Eye factor is above 5/10 and when the wind is gusting over 30 kts can everyone please stay on their leads so they don’t get blown away.  Thank you 😊 img_3633-2

Imploding Land Rovers, horrendous hangovers, scorching hot days, moon cups, friendships, farmers and a little red key

Tarifa, keep calm and carry on swimming

Why do the wheels always fall off the bus when you’re nursing the hangover from hell on the hottest day of the year so far?

It all started with an epic night out on Friday with Ellie who had come for a flying visit to Tarifa and some much needed R&R.  This happily coincided with my last weekend here in the ‘Reefa before Tiggy and I traverse back home across Spain in The Beast and prepare to embark on the next chapter of our eternity leave adventures.

Prior to coming, Ellie had already advised me that she wasn’t up for a big drinking weekend or having much of a party.  Tarifa is just as good for relaxing as it is for going out and tying one on, so I was totally cool with that and just really looking forward to seeing her.

I realised a few weeks ago, when I was starting to get a sort of twiddly thumb and itchy feet feeling, that I’ve really missed my girlfriends since I’ve been here.   Tarifa is a great place to make friends easily and everyone here has been super friendly and welcoming…yet my close circle of friends is entirely male.  I love them all dearly, I can’t even begin to imagine enjoying Tarifa without them and they are utterly fab beyond words, but it’s just not the same without a girly BFF too.

To illustrate, in planning my upcoming two months trekking in Nepal, I have had to come to terms with the idea of using a Moon Cup as you can’t leave anything behind on the mountain that isn’t bio-degradable and tampons rate about as highly as a nappy on the global pollution crime scene.  Every year over 45 billion feminine hygiene products are disposed of globally and, in one day alone, Ocean Conservancy volunteers collected a truly shameful 27,938 used tampons and applicators from our world’s beaches.   Girls, save the whales and stop flushing your tampons down the loo!

They say it takes three cycles to get used to a Moon Cup, so I’ve had to order one already which brought, in itself, a myriad of enigmatic issues.  First of all they come in different sizes, so you have work out if you are size A or B (at least they’ve wisely avoided calling them small, medium and large); you need to “trim the stem” to get the best fit, yet who knows what the best fit means? And what if you trim too much?  To top it all off, they have a troubleshooting section on their website which made my eyes water.

Conundrums such as these require close girlfriends and vast quantities of wine in order to be cogitated, speculated and digested.  They are not really something I can drop into conversation with three other blokes talking about kite gear, Tinder dates and the election results, no matter how worldly, metrosexual and lovely they are.

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Anyway, back to Friday night, where if I’m being totally truthful I don’t recall everything Ellie and I discussed, but Moon Cups certainly did come up, vats and vats of wine were definitely drunk and we were the first people through the door of Mombassa, one of the local hotspots that doesn’t even open until 2am.  It’s a good job Ellie only wanted a quiet weekend, I’m not sure I could have coped if she had really wanted to paint the town red.

So, you can imagine how we felt on Saturday morning.  It was a full-fat-coca-cola breakfast kind of day.  It was also a belting hot day –  30 degrees by 10am with Tarifa’s notorious winds not even rustling up the very smallest of cooling puffs.   It was so hot that there was a unique and stunning cloud formation which sank low and deep over the Mediterranean leaving Jebel Musa, the southern pillar of Hercules (Gibraltar is the northern pillar) in Morocco rising mysteriously and wondrously from the cloudy depths.

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The plan was to drive to Cadiz and spend the late morning and afternoon exploring the wonders of one of the oldest cities in Western Europe having been founded by the Phoenicians in 1104 BC.  N.B. that’s the Phoenicians not the Venicians, which I rather embarrassingly got terribly confused over for a while – “Founded by the Venetians? Huh? What were the merchants of Venice doing in Cadiz?”.

Anyway, fortified by the twelve secret ingredients of full fat coca-cola, scrambled eggs, jamon de serrano, coffee and two fizzy waters, Ellie, Tiggy and I scrambled and flopped into The Beast and set off, already behind schedule, at about 11.30am.

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The Beast’s 1969 air conditioning is a, usually efficient, two mechanical flap open-air mechanism, controlled by two handles underneath the windscreen.  Like little windows to the world on the front of the car, they force air through as you drive along.  Even when it’s hot, they usually work remarkably well.  We’ve often commented that all cars should have them to save on fuel efficiency.

But not today, it was like sitting in front of a fan blowing hot air on you when you’re already sweltering.  And because The Beast remains true to his original condition, his black, plastic seats only exacerbated the sauna-esque environment.  Black plastic seating is nobody’s friend on a blisteringly hot day, I felt as if we were being bar-be-queued by different heat sources from all angles.

Having already made a two minute detour via the Carrefour garage to stock up on San Pellegrino, iced lollipops and Haribo in a (failing) attempt to keep the hangovers at bay, we left Tarifa behind us and set out on the coastal road up to Cadiz.  TomTom said we would get there by 1pm, Cadiz’s not-to-be-missed market closed at 2pm, so I put my foot down and let rip.

I’m sure it was the hangovers, but The Beast felt more jiggly and bouncy than usual, and the TomTom kept falling off the windscreen into my side of the footwell by the handbrake.  It was an added irritation I could have done without.

About thirty kilometres out of town I got a little whiff of a oily-burning smell.   Three seconds later it was more than a whiff, I thought The Beast was on fire.

Attempting and no doubt failing to remain calm, I looked at Ellie “I smell burning, that’s not us, is it?”
“Yes it is” she replied “we need to pull over”

The stretch of road we were on had no hard shoulder, and cars were hurtling down on us at a terrific rate of knots.  So we needed to find a lay by.   The Beast has no hazard lights so one has to be extra thoughtful and considerate about doing an emergency stop at any time, but particularly on a busy road.

The burning smell got stronger and stronger and I started to have alarming visions of us bursting into flames and Tiggy, Ellie and I being literally rather than merely metaphorically burnt to a crisp.  There was a turn off to a local farm track – I pulled in quickly, I unbuckled Tiggy and I, and we all got out rather sharpish.   I was half expecting to have to run, James Bond style, as The Beast spontaneously combusted behind us.  But, thankfully, he just sat there.

Ellie, Tiggy and I gingerly returned to the car.  I cautiously opened the bonnet, mercifully no flickering flames or anything else looked seemingly untoward.  And then, like gourmet chefs inhaling the aroma of their latest pungent, gastronomic creation, we tentatively sniffed The Beast from top to toe.  We sniffed his wheels in case it was the brakes.  We sniffed the engine from all sides and angles.  We sniffed the exhaust.  We sniffed in the back.  We sniffed in the front.  Tiggy, naturally, sniffed along in unison.

Ellie concluded it smelt a bit stronger by the front left wheel.  We sniffed in harmony together and agreed.  But we still didn’t know WTF had happened and were none the wiser.

It was decreed I would restart the engine.  I clambered back in, sweaty legs sliding on the burning hot seat.  I turned the key in the ignition and absolutely nothing happened.  No starter motor kicking into gear.  No coughing or spluttering.  Thankfully, no exploding or bursting flames.  But it was quite eerie.  Like a dodgem car when the ride has run out, no matter what over-ride switches I flicked, there wasn’t a spark of life left in him.  “Oh Beastie”, I thought “I hope you haven’t gone and died on us, we need you”.

By this point Ellie and Tiggy were sheltering from the scorching sun in the lee of a bush at the side of the road and I was still poking things randomly, along with a few sensible measures like checking the oil and water under the shelter of a brolly I’d (ahem) borrowed many moons ago from The Dean Street Townhouse.  It made for an excellent parasol, I can highly recommend borrowing one too, should you ever have the occasion to go there.  Whoever says crime doesn’t pay hasn’t broken down in 35 degrees at mid-day in Southern Spain, in a car with no A/C and only half a bottle of San Pellegrino and some melting Haribo to sustain them.

I called International Roadside Assistance, who, after asking me a mystifyingly large raft of questions for over ten minutes (including did Tiggy have her passport on her, did we have any luggage and what time was the ferry that we were due to depart on) determined that I was covered and they would send someone out to help.  Personally I felt that ‘I’ve broken down, I need roadside assistance, it’s very hot, there’s no shade’ would have more than covered it, but, hey, what do I know.

I was told someone would call us within half and hour and tell us when they would be able to get to us.  As you can imagine, that didn’t exactly make my heart sing with joy.

Time to call in the cavalry I thought and, thankfully, as we were only half an hour and not an hour and a half out of Tarifa, I called my friend Rowan who is always brilliant in a calamity.  I filled him in on what had come to pass.

Even though he’s one of the cleverest people I know, disappointingly, he wasn’t able to diagnose The Beast’s condition from 20k away.  I explained that I had called International assistance, but could he please come and pick up Ellie and Tiggy who, by this point, were crouching under the bush as the sun was directly overhead and there was very little shade at all.

Rowan pinged me a couple of things he’d google’d and set out in his modern, air conditioned, 4×4 with a giant bottle of water.  His ETA was thirty-ish minutes away.

And then, just because it was one of those days that decides to kick the dirt in your eyes when you’ve already been tripped up, a ginormous tractor trundled round the corner right into the path of The Beast, who was completely blocking the farm track.  My bottom lip had a little, involuntary wobble.

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The Farmer looked at me – standing there in a sundress under a black umbrella next to a Landy with the bonnet and all doors open – it must have been quite an arresting sight.  He hadn’t yet spotted Ellie and Tiggy crouching under the bush.

I looked at him.  I attempted a smile and pointed at The Beast and then made the international sign of death by pretending to slice my throat with my finger.

He descended from his huge tractor – it made The Beast look like a minnow, a tiddler of vehicles compared to this monster of a machine with a massive digger on the front and some indiscernible plough or farrow trailer on the back.  I thought he was going to shout at me for being in his way.

My Spanish is getting better all the time with practice, but given that I don’t even do ‘car speak’ in my native tongue, I knew it would be a bit of a battle to communicate what had come to pass in a foreign language.

Many charades and made up words later, he got the gist of it all.  I turned the key in the engine, I showed him the override switch.  He looked at the fuse box and checked the fuses.  I showed him the battery  – he pulled it out and checked the connections, all good.

We looked under the bonnet together.  I sniffed and showed him where the smell was.  He looked at the oil and declared it was new, I said it was, he said it was good.  He checked the water and said it was cold and that the level was correct, which was also good.  I’d already done those checks, but let’s face it, it was helpful to have someone who actually knew what they were talking about corroborate this view.

And then he spotted something I had not.  A pipe had come away at it’s joist.  Given the bumpy roads and all the shaking and vibrating that’s part and parcel of owning a vintage landy like The Beast, it’s amazing that anything held together by a mere screw would stick.  And this was one that had come unstuck.

The Farmer, now totally in the swing of Spanish Charades, put his hands around his neck and made a choking noise and then stuck his tongue out and did a ‘dead’ face’.  I deduced this was, therefore, the air intake pipe.  So the burning smell made sense, as once it had come away we would have smelt the engine combusting, and even I know that engines make power by burning oxygen (air) with fuel.

The Farmer put the air intake pipe back into its socket.  He got out his Swiss Army Knife and started to tighten the brace round the neck of the socket.  I told him to wait, that I had a toolkit.  I knew I had a ratcheting screwdriver with different shapes and sizes of attachments, given to me in a neon pink bag along with an assortment of other useful tools and some Refresher chews by a kind petrol-head friend who had been to stay previously and was underwhelmed by my lack of appropriate equipment.

It was kept in the locker under the passenger seat – so I took the seat apart and triumphantly handed the pink neon bag to the Farmer who looked speechless and rather aghast as he rifled through it to retrieve said screwdriver and confidently secure the air intake pipe.  We both smiled.

But still The Beast would not start.  Dead as a dodo.  Not a flicker of life.  My heart sank.  It was impossible not to let my mind run ahead to how on earth I was going to get Tiggy and I home with no wheels.  Would I have to buy a new car here in Spain?

I was just beginning to imagine the “I told you that car was a mistake” lecture I was going to get from Daddy Neary when the Farmer, who was ferreting about on the drivers side emerged, proudly holding a large, red, plastic key.  It’s the sort of key you have on a boat battery.  In The Beast, it lives down on the left, on the driver’s side, in the footwell by the handbrake.  In fact, it’s exactly where the TomTom had fallen off into, twice in a row.

It was on the floor, said the Farmer.  I immediately clicked that the TomTom must have knocked it and it worked loose and, by sheer coincidence, when we had come to a halt and we’d all made a sharp exit from The Beast I must have knocked it out with my foot.

The red key was reinserted.  The immobiliser switch on the dashboard panel was flicked on.  The Farmer and I looked at each other, hesitantly and expectantly.  He nodded.  I turned the ignition key.  And, resuscitated by juice in his veins and air in his lungs, The Beast roared and shook back into life.

I jumped down from the driver’s seat and gave the Farmer a huge, huge, huge hug.  Ellie said she wished she had taken a picture of his face, that it was quite a sight to behold.  A million times thank you, I said.  In return he smiled and shook my hand.  With hindsight, the hug may have been slightly OTT.

So, that was that.  I immediately got on the phone to the Cavalry that was Rowan – he was, by then, only five minutes away – and Cadiz now clearly off the menu, we decided the sensible thing was for him to take Ellie and Tiggy in the air conditioned cool of his modern 4×4 and The Beast and I would follow back to his house to decompress and exhale.

I also called International Roadside assistance to tell them I’d met a Farmer and that he’d fixed us.  Oh good, said the lady, because I was having real trouble getting through to anyone to help you.  How reassuring to have spent £250 on that then, I thought.

Back at Rowan’s house, Ellie and I revived ourselves by taking it in turns to stand in front of his giant fan and gulp down even more water.

Clambering back into The Beast we were merely one short, sticky legged drive back home.  Gosh it was good to be back in one piece.

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Via a banana milkshake and yet more water, we headed out for a revitalising swim.  The water was refreshingly chilly – the sea breeze had finally kicked in, and meant we swam in the Atlantic Ocean, on the Phoenician port side of Tarifa’s Isle of Doves.  The winds and tides have shaped and honed the ancient walls over time –  it’s one of the most beautiful tidal pools I’ve ever swum in, even if the Phoenicians didn’t quite intend it for that purpose all those centuries ago.

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That night Ellie, Rowan and I jubilantly headed out to Vejer De La Frontera, to my favourite restaurant in the region, Corredera 55 where, perched on the hillside looking over the valley, we enjoyed a delicious, delectable and divine dinner as the sun went down on our day of adventures.

And then, the drive home in the pitch black was a total nightmare, because none of the lights on the Landy would come on.  And, yet again, we had to call on the Cavalry that is Rowan to help us once more.  I can’t face reliving it by writing about it, but suffice to say we made it back alive and on Monday morning The Beast will be marched straight to the garage to get his fuses fixed.

It will be bittersweet to leave Tarifa.  Time has flown by, having made many precious memories and learnt so many new things from kite surfing and playing the guitar to the importance of a little red key.

Even though I really have missed my girl-friends back home, I am fortunate to have forged the strongest bonds of friendship here too.  At some point in the coming year we will be scattered across all four corners of the world, each on our own adventure, from Japan to Nepal to Chile and South Africa.  And the wonderful thing about friendship is that it doesn’t matter in the slightest whether I return to Tarifa or not.  Good friends are the family we choose for ourselves and they are like the sun, the moon and the stars –  you may not always see them, but you know they are always there.

Choose happy, cherish your friends.

Love, Sophie, Tiggy and The Beast X

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For the love of dog: Tiggy cashes in on one of her seven lives…

A curious turn of incidents has led to a very emotional week for the Tarifa arm of the Neary family.

It all started, I think, with an extra enthusiastic bounce from Tiggy onto the sofa one evening which ended in a squeal and a sore back leg.  The next day when I left to go kiting she cried a bit – hindsight being 20:20, I now realise she was trying to tell me her leg was properly sore and not just an ‘ouchy’.

A few hobbling walks later, I started to get worried as it didn’t seem to be getting any better. But I knew it wasn’t broken as she could, when required, still bounce up the steep steps to our apartment, run after her ball or jump onto my lap for a cuddle.

Was it worth a vets visit, I pondered on Tuesday.  Having prevaricated and then decided yes, an appointment was secured for 1pm on Thursday.

In the meantime one of the Tarifa Tribe lent me his ‘red light’ therapy lamp – which, he explained, enhances and promotes the body’s natural healing powers.  I can’t confess I understood the science behind it, but when he mentioned it was used by NASA to treat injuries in outer space, I concluded it would be good enough for Tiggy to try on terra firma.

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Tiggy adores warmth be it a glorious sunny spot, a toasty wood burner and she is especially fond of underfloor heating (let’s face it, who isn’t?).  Unsurprisingly then she utterly adored being placed strategically into position and basking in the red light glow for a restorative twenty minutes at a time.

Thursday came and we ambled along the road to see our vet, Eva.  Eva was already firm friends with Tiggy as, quite soon after we arrived, Tiggy contracted an infection in her lady-bottom.  Quite how remains somewhat of a mystery – although my friends all took great pleasure in concocting stories as to how this had come to pass – each one more outrageous and revolting than the next.  One (i.e. me) was not amused.  My theory is it was something to do with the sweet yet slobbering boxer who lives below us and who licked her bottom like a lollipop every time we entered or left our apartment.

Anyway…I explained the potential source of the sore leg to the lovely Swiss German, fluent Spanish and English speaking Eva.  Tiggy was duly walked around the waiting room like a little show pony so that her limp could be seen from all sides and then hoisted onto the table in the examination room where her leg was manipulated in every angle conceivable (and some that seemed pretty inconceivable to me) whilst being bribed with biscuits.

“I’m sure it’s not broken” said Eva, “but it could be a torn ligament which will show if the bones are misaligned, so we need to do an X-ray.”

That almost worried me more as if Tiggy had torn the equivalent of her ACL, I wasn’t quite clear how well it would heal – you can’t exactly get a knee brace for a little back leg.

Tiggy obediently tottered behind Eva into the x-ray room to be papped at a number of different angles.  More than a smattering of the eight thousand plus photos I have on my phone are of Tiggy – so fortunately she’s very used to striking a pose.  Tiggy was returned to me for a tummy tickle and yet another treat whilst we waited for Eva to examine the X-ray.

After a while Eva came back and showed me the X-ray results.   It was good news, the leg bones were ever so slightly misaligned, which probably meant a strained, not torn, ligament – rest and recuperation were the order of the day along with an injection of pain killer. I also showed Eva a picture of the red light lamp of love and she concurred it was good to keep that treatment going too.

Then there was a pregnant pause and just as I was about to scoop Tiggy up and take her home, Eva told me, hesitantly, that something else has showed up in the X-ray.  An unexpected, slightly skewiff, solid triangle shaped ‘foreign object’ in, what seemed to be, her tummy.  Not a growth, not a tumour or anything else that would conjure a myriad of consequences – but, all the same, an unwelcome intruder, lodged inside where it ought not to have been.

There then followed a lengthy discussion as to what the alien object actually was.  I went through the options – most likely a pebble, possibly a remnant of bone or a bit of plastic from an old ball were the most obvious ones I could come up with.  One of the other vets suggested tin foil, which was also entirely feasible.
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I wasn’t at all bothered.  Hoppity leg aside, Tiggy was in more than great health. Wet nose, waggy tail, shiny coat and no change to her eat-everything-in-sight appetite or digestion.

“It’s probably a stone”, I said, “and I bet it’s been in there for ages”.

When I first got Tiggy, seven years ago, she had just come out of being on heat. She’s a rescue dog having been hideously treated by her cretinous previous owners. The RSPCA recommends all rescue dogs are speyed as, I’m guessing (although I don’t know for sure) if you don’t know what they’ve been through, then you should avoided breeding from them. You have to wait a while after a dog has been in season before you have them spayed and during this time poor little Tiggy developed a phantom pregnancy.

It was a nightmare. She became very territorial over her basket, she’d growl at the boys at work when any of them came into my office and, most heartbreaking of all, she ‘adopted’ some large pebbles from my garden and treated them like her own newborn puppies.

When it was sunny, one by one, the pebbles would be picked up and carried outside and placed in the warmth of the sunshine.

When the sun went in, one by one, the pebbles would be picked up, carried back inside and tucked into her basket.

An injection of hormones at the vets put paid to the phantom puppies and pregnancy and Tiggy buried her own demons from the past to become the much adored and happy, bouncy dog she is today.

So I wondered if the stone could have been an unintentional left over consequence from the puppy-pebble saga.

The other reason I felt there was more than a fighting chance it was a stone was because Tiggy also loves nothing more than a game of throw and catch with anything that resembles a ball.   Given that a fair few beaches where we’ve played catch for years on the Isle of Wight are pebbly ones, it seemed entirely plausible that one had been accidentally ingested.

So, as I said, I was entirely unbothered – Tiggy was in fine fettle, it clearly wasn’t causing her any issues at all and I assumed it could therefore just stay put.

Unfortunately, Eva did not share this opinion.  She was quite firm, it needed to be dealt with before it became a problem.   It absolutely could not stay put, it had to come out.   Some more X-rays on an empty tummy were required in order to properly determine the next steps and we were sent home, Tiggy to be nil by mouth until 1pm the next day.

Back we went on Friday, this time with my visiting friend, Gretchen, also in tow.   We had an ultrasound to start with. Good news! The object had vanished.  I breathed a sigh of relief.  It must have been some tin foil stuck to a piece of left over steak brought home from a restaurant for Tiggy on Tuesday.

I felt as if I had exhaled properly for the first time in twenty four hours.

Eva said we should do one more x-ray to be on the safe side. Fine, I said, already looking forward to a restorative gin and tonic and toasting the demise of tummy-gate on the beach with Gretchen.

But no, those plans were quickly thwarted as lo and behold the x-ray showed the pesky little blighter was still there. In exactly the same place, it just hadn’t showed up in the ultrasound for some strange reason.

“What happens now?”, I asked Eva.  I was given two options.  Either drive up the coast to a pet hospital in Chiclana where they could perform an endoscopy, or have an operation here, which that would mean cutting directly into her tummy, i.e a big operation.

I was still struggling to grasp that my seemingly, healthy, happy little dog was going to have to undergo a major procedure, when, to all intents and purposes, she clearly was feeling perfectly chipper.

“What would you do if she was your dog?” I asked Eva, “I would go to Chiclana for the endoscopy”, she replied.   Although she made it clear there was no guarantee the foreign object could or would be excavated by the endoscopy, and then there would be no option but to cut her open.

At this point the enormity of it all hit me and I put my head in my hands and burst into tears. I didn’t want Tiggy to have a general anaesthetic. Even though I’m ridiculously squeamish, the idea of the endoscopy didn’t bother me at all. But the idea of her having a general anaesthetic filled me with an overwhelming gnawing, clawing anxiety.

The vet in Chiclana had already been contacted and an emergency appointment was made for Saturday (the following) morning.

In the meantime I messaged my friends at home who have far more experience in this area than I, having owned not one but five spaniels (at the same time) over the past thirteen years, one of whom had a particular penchant for eating toy soldiers and dinky cars.  Get a second opinion, they counselled whilst sending lots of love to Tiggy.

In the end, four vets all concluded that, whatever it was, it had to come out.

There was little more we could do, so Tiggy, Gretchen and I headed off to the beach for a few hours and a much needed beer.   My head was still reeling that an initial visit over a sore leg had turned into such a significant incident.  I hadn’t had time to brace or prepare myself for this at all.

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Tiggy, who already hadn’t eaten for twenty four hours, was now nil by mouth both food and water. Hunger aside she was still full of bounce and fun and was ecstatic that, as a rare special treat, she was allowed upstairs to sleep on my bed that evening.

She started the night curled up in a puffed up part of duvet at the end of the bed. By about 3am I felt the warmth of her body tucked into the small of my back. By 6.30am, when it was time to get up, she’d managed to commando crawl on her tummy and ended up nose to nose with me on the pillow, somehow sensing that she wouldn’t be told off for doing so.img_4947

This was the first “early getting up” deadline I’d had since being made redundant. And I didn’t enjoy it at all.  Having washed, fed and watered myself whilst Tiggy looked on hungrily it was time to leave.

I packed her bed and her blanket so she’d have some security from familiar surroundings when she came round the from the anaesthetic and it was time to hit the road.

The destination of the pet hospital was tapped into the TomTom and The Beast roared into life, ready to transport his precious cargo up the coast.

It’s a bit of a standing joke in our family that I’m a fairly rubbish driver. I don’t enjoy or like driving and I certainly don’t like going fast.  My usual modus operandi is far more Driving Miss Daisy than Speedy Gonzales, I tend to tootle along, very content to be overtaken by all and sundry whilst we amble bumpily to our destination.

It’s partly why I like driving on the Isle of  Wight – no motorways or dual carriageways, the sat nav in my old Fiat 500 would often report an average speed of 25mph.   For the past ten years my total annual mileage has been under 2,000.

Not today though.  We pulled out of Tarifa and onto the main coast road and with a purposeful sense of grit and determination, I totally floored it.

The Beast charged and roared loudly (and rattled) like a raging bull – I think he has something like a 2.5 litre engine, and trust me, it was put to good use.

On any given day it’s an impressive drive – we left the beautiful beaches of Tarifa and Bolonia behind us and turned the corner to stampede through the national park and thunder past the enormous wind farms.

In 2016 Spain was impressively the fourth biggest producer of wind power in the world (after China, the USA and Germany) and 20% of the country’s total electricity comes from the wind.  When the conditions are right (i.e. windy), wind has surpassed all other power sources in Spain – the record being November 21, 2015 when 70.4% of electricity consumed on the mainland came from the element.  Capitalising on its exposed location, fifty eight giant wind farms power the entire region of Cadiz, a truly arresting sight as you’re driving along.

Not much happens in Spain at 7.30am on a Saturday morning and the wind farm was no exception.  The windmills were completely stationary, like an army of mammoth, slumbering triffids, row after motionless row, heads bowed as if to respectfully let us pass through unfettered.

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This must have been the first time in my life that I’ve ever broken a speed limit as we arrived in Chiclana at 8.50am, a full fifteen minutes before the TomTom’s estimated arrival time. (Usually we are fifteen to twenty minutes behind its ETA.)

Navigating the many roundabouts in Chiclana, I drove on the principle that anything getting in the way of us would come off far, far worse. It’s amazing how quickly cars get out of your way when they see two and a half tons of noisy, shaking and vibrating Land Rover with a wide eyed woman at the wheel, hurtling down on them at speed.

We pulled into the car park of the pet hospital – a reassuringly clean, modern and clinical looking building.  I turned off The Beast’s ignition, the vibrations juddered to a stop and for a few moments I just sat in stillness and silence hugging Tiggy on my knee.

Plastering a brave smile on my face that tried and failed to mask my true emotions, we walked towards the main door, carrying Tiggy’s bed and blanket, where the Vet and his assistant were already waiting for us.

We were immediately ushered into a consulting room – Tiggy who clearly still felt right as rain, was totally oblivious to what she was about to be subjected to.  The vet was calmly and clinically efficient.  Instructing me to hold Tiggy’s head, he took some blunt ended scissors and started to snip a patch of fur away on her right leg.

Tiggy, at this point, sussed that something untoward was up and started to tremble.  She looked at me as if to say ‘what’s happening mummy?’ as she shook from head to tail.  I kept talking to her to reassure her as a huge needle was inserted into her little leg and she was given a tranquilliser prior to the anaesthetic.

Then it was time to hand her over to the professionals. The vet picked up her blankie and told me to put her in his arms which I did with a big kiss and ear tickle.  Then I looked up at him and said “Por favor ten cuidado, ella es mi bebé” (please take care, she is my baby) and I stifled a sob as he nodded brusquely and walked out of the room.

The lovely, kind assistant squeezed my arm as tears streamed down my face.  There was a cafe at the beach I could go to, she explained, and they would call me when the operation was over.  “How long will it be?”, I asked, “we don’t know” she said, as it would depend on whether the endoscopy was successful for not.  Clearly it was going to be a fair few hours and I was in for a long wait.

By now I was shaking as much as Tiggy and I drove, super slowly, towards the beach where there was a street dotted with small cafes and cervicerias.   I plumped for the one that was busiest and, with my book, sat outside waiting to be served.

The waiter approached and I asked for the menu.  He smiled and said “Solo tenemos café, chocolate caliente, té, zumo de naranja y churros” (we only have coffee, hot chocolate, tea, orange juice and donuts).   Somewhat dazed I decided I needed some sugar and went all out ordering a hot chocolate, orange juice and churros.

On the table next to me was a Spanish couple about my age with a giant Great Dane who came over to say hello to me.  Sitting down my eyes were level with his, he was huge.  I patted him on his head and explained, haltingly, to the couple that my little dog was currently having an operation at the hospital down the road.  They cooed appropriately over a picture of Tiggy and were fittingly sympathetic, saying they had heard it was an excellent hospital, she was in good hands.

I eeked out eating my breakfast, savouring the sweetness of the churros whilst attempting to read my book.  After reading the same page twenty times, I gave up and sat simply staring into space, alternately checking my watch and my phone every five minutes.  The Great Dane couple left, wished me good luck and farewell and I was alone once more.

Time crawled torturously by.  First one hour.  Then two.  I kept the small family of friends who knew what was going on updated by text and also filled my sister in on the situation.  My heart hurt, my tummy ached, and I had to concentrate really hard on not letting myself fall into the trap of “what if” fear-mongering.

Just as I was coming up on the three hour mark, I texted “I’m flapping now.  It’s been three hours, I’m getting really worried”.

I was just about to lose it when two seconds after I’d hit send, the phone range.  A Spanish number.  The hospital.  My hands were shaking so much I nearly dropped the phone.  The vet’s voice spoke to me “Todo es bueno, puedes venir a recoger a tu perrito” (everything is fine, you can come and collect your little dog).  My voice caught in my throat, I couldn’t speak, all I managed was a squeaky ‘Gracias’.  

I asked the waiter for the bill, he explained it had been paid by the couple with “the big dog”.   I was touched beyond words –  a timely reminder that no act of kindness, regardless how big or small, is ever wasted.  Dog people really are the best.

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The Beast and I sped back to the hospital.  And, once again, the vet and his assistant were waiting at the door.  I was whisked upstairs this time and taken into a different room.  The endoscopy had been a success.  There was no need to slice Tiggy open.  She would be sleepy and dozy for the next twenty four hours – but she could have some soft food this afternoon.  I just kept saying ‘gracias’ and nodding.  I didn’t even really feel relieved which was strange, I think I was still numb from it all.

And then, before being reunited with little Tiggy, I was ceremoniously handed over the mysterious alien object and the root cause of all this trauma and emotion.  It was a large pebble – smooth on all sides, shaped like a duck (he said).   I’ve kept it of course, although I’m not entirely sure what I’m going to do with it.

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We left the consultation room and went next door, and there, in a tiny cage, in her basket, wrapped in her blankie was Tiggy.  The door was opened and she teetered out, like a little drunk, tottering about on jelly legs, still clearly feeling the after affects of the anaesthetic.

I scooped her up and covered her little face in kisses before carrying her out to the car and clicking her into the middle seat.  She gave me a look as if to say ‘what was that all about?’, closed her eyes and dozed off to sleep.

Heading back to Tarifa I reverted to “Driving Miss Daisy” mode once more – although clearly the stress and worry of the morning was wreaking havoc on my mind, as we went round a roundabout three times having missed the exit that was extremely clearly communicated both verbally by the TomTom and visually by the road signs.

I drove home at half the speed of the early morning journey, The Beast, far less noisy and rattly now he was not being pushed to the max – a much quieter and calmer ride.  Every now and again Tiggy would wake up, lift up her head and snuffle at me, and then plonk her head down again and go back to sleep.

As we closed in on the approach to the national park, I could see in the distance that the wind had picked up and the triffid army of windmills had awoken, their arms twirling in their endless and relentless march to power the region.

The road was busier now too – and we were peeped at and overtaken many, many times as we bimbled along, back home to Tarifa.  Once safely ensconced in our apartment, Tiggy dozing contentedly on the sofa, I lay down next to her and, totally shattered, fell fast asleep.

For the next few days Tiggy was definitely out of sorts, very clingy and always wanting to sit on my knee – which isn’t really like her at all as, like me, she’s a very independent little thing.  Her throat was clearly sore – although she very much enjoyed being fed home-made chicken stock along with poached chicken and rice instead of her usual crunchy, scratchy kibble.

Little by little she’s got her mojo back, the fur is growing on her leg, and even though her back leg is still a bit wonky, day by day she is reverting back to the fizzing, bouncing bundle of energy we have grown to love so much.

Gosh life can be cruel with its twists and turns – a lost job, a broken heart, an unexpected illness…sometimes we are fortunate enough to be able to take the cards that fate has dealt us and throw them back into the dealer’s deck and select some more.

And other times we have no choice but to deal with the cards we’ve been handed, to make the most of a situation which, particularly when our hearts and emotions are involved, can seem to take on a magnitude all of its own.

Sitting now writing this, with Tiggy snoozing contentedly, sandwiched between the warmth of my lap and the heat from my laptop I can’t help but think, no matter what happens, how lucky we are to have the luxury of this gap year together.

With Tiggy by my side I am never alone and our home, wherever that may be, is always full of love.  She waits for me at the bottom of the stairs when I wake up in the morning.  She’s right by the door with a little waggy tail to welcome me home.  She is Piglet to my Winnie the Pooh, and, as that oh so clever bear of very little brain once said;

“Sometimes the smallest things take up the most room in your heart”.

Choose happy – do all things with love.

Sophie, Tiggy and The Beast X

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All that is gold does not glitter, not all those who wander are lost; monkeying around in Gibraltar

This week, along with two friends who were over from the UK, I hiked Gibraltar Rock via the Mediterranean Steps.  It was a stunning, steep and sweaty climb up a narrow, rocky and winding footpath which hugs the south eastern side of this 1,398 feet high limestone British territory, previously known as one of the Pillars of Hercules.

I left The Beast on the Spanish side and walked, with my friends, through border control onto British soil.  And there commenced our day of unanticipated, remarkable moments.  The first frisson of excitement came as we realised that the road and walkway into the town was actually the runway for Gibraltar airport – basically it was a level crossing, but for aeroplanes and not trains.

We were the last to cross before the barriers came down and, nipping at our heels, followed a dustman vigorously sweeping the path behind us, no doubt to ensure that no errant discarded cigarette butts or other debris could cause issue to the planes about to taxi down the runway.

Two minutes later the ground shook and the air reverberated with the roar of a Monarch aeroplane taking off, transporting the very creme de la creme of Brits abroad back to the motherland.

And then we were thrust into the hustle and bustle of Gibraltar’s Main Street, a place which surely can appeal only to those with a penchant for grimy and grotty looking pubs and the chips-with-everything brigade or those who can’t survive a holiday abroad without something from Marks and Spencers (handy though, I suppose, if you’ve forgotten to pack your knickers).

Why on earth would anyone come here for a holiday, I wondered, as we made our way through the throng of tax free shoppers.  It felt as if we were on the set of Phoenix Nights and I half expected a Peter Kay ‘Is this the way to Amarillo’ flashmob to spring up on us at any moment.

Amongst the melee though, if you looked closely, there were little, precious gems of quintessential British cultural icons all along the way: an original red telephone box; an extremely rare Queen Victoria Royal Mail pillar box which, post-walk research revealed, dated back to circa 1874 when all pillar boxes were painted red to stop people walking into them; a Game of Thrones-esque cannon that could fire at a steeply downward facing angle, invented by the British military and a huge strategic success against the Spanish and French during the Siege of Gibraltar in 1782.

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And then, turning a corner on the far side of town as we began to climb up to the National Park, we chanced upon Trafalgar Cemetery – where those who died from wounds post the battle of Trafalgar in 1805 were buried.  All except Nelson himself, that is, who was pickled in brandy aboard HMS Victory by a sharp thinking surgeon before undergoing a two month journey back to England for a suitably fitting state funeral and burial at St Paul’s Cathedral.

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Somewhat underwhelmed by Gibraltar thus far, we started to climb and leave the town behind us – along residential roads lined with high rise apartments, a crumbling, rusting and tumbledown casino, a quietly chic looking Art Deco hotel that must have been something to behold in its heyday and, just like across the border in Spain, roads bearing startlingly fast drivers, particularly considering the narrowness of the streets.

Finally we arrived at the entrance to the National Park and a steady incline up to Jews Gate and the start of the Mediterranean steps.  It cost an exorbitant 50p per person to enter the National Park, I can hand-on-heart say it’s exceedingly good value for money.

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And there we stepped into a different world – one where we replaced the waddling protagonists from the high street with a sanctuary of solitude and silence, save for our puffing breath and the mis-identification of many an indigenous plant and flower by me.  “Oh is that the Gibraltan narcissi?” I pondered out loud, looking at a pretty pale purple flower.  “No, I think it’s bindweed”, my friend answered.

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The Mediterranean steps were originally constructed by the British Military as part of the fortification of the Rock.  I can’t imagine how hard it must have been to build the steps in the searing heat with the inhospitable terrain but I hope they took some small solace in the breathtaking views across the Straits to Morocco, we certainly did.

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Half way up we passed pre-historic caves which were once at sea level, it took a while to get our heads round that one.   We explored countless look out bunkers from World War II and marvelled at how the unfathomably heavy machinery, still in place and perfectly preserved had been hoisted up there, and we even spotted a peregrine falcon swooping below us.

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Wild poppies lined the rocky path – which, on reflection, seemed very apt given the provenance of Gibraltar’s military significance in British history.

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It’s at this juncture that I could become a total history bore – many of the stories from the Rock are such stuff that Hollywood blockbusters are made of.  But in an attempt to keep you interested (spoiler alert: there’s a cute picture of a monkey-eating-a-magnum to come), I’ve boiled down my potted knowledge to the following fascinating facts.

The Rock is famous for the Great Siege Tunnels – a series of passages and tunnels that were excavated in circa 1780 and formed the basis for what turned into an underground fortress in World War II, housing guns, hangars, ammunition stores, barracks, kitchens and hospitals.  To put this into context; Gibraltar is 2.6 square miles yet the tunnels are a whopping 34 miles long.  During WWII, this stronghold accommodated 16,000 men along with all the supplies, ammunition and equipment needed to withstand a prolonged siege – some of the soldiers often would go without seeing broad daylight for over two months.

Fifty two years after the Second World War ended in 1997, it was discovered that we had a highly classified plan called Operation Tracer to secretly seal six men into a specially drilled out tunnel with radio equipment to report enemy movements, should the Germans have captured the Rock.

The operation was so covert that only a select few in Whitehall knew about it.   A six-man team underwent rigorous psychological and aptitude tests for being entombed alive in an underground bunker (although heaven only knows how you test for that?).  Provisions for a seven year sojourn in the “Stay Behind Bunker” were amassed.

The team waited, top secret and under cover, in Gibraltar for two and half years.  Thankfully, despite being completely surrounded by occupied territory, Gibraltar remained under British power and, after the war ended, the cave was closed off, still top secret, and the team were disbanded to resume civilian life.

Rumours of the Stay Behind Cave apparently swirled around for decades in Gibraltar, until discovery of the chambers in 1997 by the Gibraltar Caving Group.  The authenticity of the site was confirmed by the last surviving member of the Tracer team who died in 2010 – imagine keeping that a secret for fifty two years?!  Clearly they chose its potential inhabitants well.

Finally – when World War II broke out, the majority of the civilian population, some 22,000 people, were evacuated to Morocco, the UK, Jamaica and Madeira so that the military could fortify Gibraltar.  Many lived in camps in awful conditions and were passed from pillar to post, the last of the evacuees weren’t able to return until 1951 – an astonishing six years after the war had ended.

The civilians were evacuated so that 30,000 British soldiers, sailors, and airmen could move to the Rock to defend the vital shipping routes to the Mediterranean and so that six carefully selected men could be sealed alive in a Stay Behind Bunker should Gibraltar have fallen to the Nazis.

So, all in all, we owe quite a bit to Gibraltar and its people.

During the last ascent of the walk, we came across the Macaque Barbery Apes which infamously reign over the top of the Rock.  They’re not actually apes at all, they are tail-less monkeys, and the only population of wild monkeys in Europe.

Despite a £500 fine for feeding the monkeys and signs everywhere saying that they are not to be fed, we encountered monkeys eating Digestive biscuits and remnants of a Magnum ice cream….*rolls eyes*.  No wonder they were a bit mental.

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I wasn’t a big fan of the monkey – and neither was Tiggy as, unbeknownst to her, they were the reason she’d been foisted on a kind friend for the day back in Tarifa.  We all felt that the odds of one feisty Jack Russell Terrier vs two hundred and thirty monkeys may not be in our favour.

Finally we came across the medieval steps which we both tentatively and hurriedly descended as they were patrolled by some rather possessive looking monkeys who ‘may become aggressive if cornered on the steps’.

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We meandered back to the national park entrance via the large chimneys of the now-defunct military kitchens – and braced ourselves to face the sights, smells and sounds and the onslaught of the High Street once more.

I don’t feel my description has done justice to how stunning the walk was  – the amazing views made the glute-toning, challenging steps all worth while and it felt special to be able to cherish the magic of the Rock far from the madding crowds who ascend it via cable car, take a selfie with a monkey, scoff an ice cream, turn around and go straight back down again.

Thirteen miles, 99 floors and 30,214 steps later we crossed the border once more to our cars (this time we had a near miss with a military plane landing on the runway).  And with a big hug and very fond farewell I parted with my friends who returned back to the splendour of their 5* hotel (with the luxury of a bath!) and The Beast and I wound our way back through the spectacular views of Spanish National Park to Tarifa.

Driving back I thought about my first, instinctive impression of Gibraltar – were one to judge it by its cover – a tacky kind of Blackpool with guaranteed sunshine and marauding monkeys instead of donkeys – but as Tolkien said, ‘all that is gold does not glitter’ and to uphold that impression would be a great dis-service to both the Rock itself, the history it holds, as well the Gibraltarians and their extraordinary lives.

Plus, trust me, once you’ve climbed those steps for an hour and a half, navigated and negotiated with hangry monkeys and walked back down again, a plate of double-fried egg, sausage, chips and beans with lashings of HP sauce for £5.99 and all polished off with a pint of lager top might not seem quite such a bad idea after all…

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It takes a long time to grow old friends and this was the most perfect of adventures with the oldest of friends.  Our lives are a tapestry made up of occasions such as these, special moments to be stitched into memories.

Tolkien continued his beautiful poem with ‘not all those who wander are lost’.  I love wandering – and our Gibraltar expedition proved that it doesn’t matter where you wander, on cliff tops, on beaches, in cities, in mountains, down rivers or canals – there’s always something interesting out there to learn and discover, wherever you are – all you have to do is go and look for it.

Chapeau, Gibraltar, chapeau!

Choose happy,

Love Sophie, Tiggy and The Beast X

All That is Gold Does Not Glitter – J.R.R.Tolkien

All that is gold does not glitter,
Not all those who wander are lost;
The old that is strong does not wither,
Deep roots are not reached by the frost.
From the ashes a fire shall be woken,
A light from the shadows shall spring;
Renewed shall be blade that was broken,
The crownless again shall be king.

Dare to go bare: the one where Tiggy and I go to the nudist beach

A few weeks ago Tiggy, a friend and I went for a walk on the giant sand dune on the western most tip of Tarifa’s golden, crescent shaped beach.  There wasn’t a cloud in the sky, the sea was sparkling turquoise and crystal clear and the beach was dotted with local families enjoying a glorious Saturday in April.

I lamented the fact that I hadn’t bought my bikini, as it was a lovely day for a refreshing dunk in the sea (in fact, that was the very day Tiggy learnt to swim).  “No problem”, my friend replied, “You don’t need one, if you keep going round the point towards Bolonia there are lots of secluded coves you can only get to on foot where the nudes hang out”.

We didn’t end up going that way, I didn’t get my swim and my clothes remained firmly on but a little nugget of a thought began to germinate in my mind.

Nudist beaches are tantalisingly un-British – in fact I’m so boringly middle class that I can probably count on one hand the amount of times I’ve ever sunbathed topless.  In my defence this is in part due to the fact that whilst I’m certainly not a delicate English rose when it comes to my character, I most certainly am a delicate English rose when it comes to my complexion and therefore my predisposition to burn.

For this and other unimportant reasons I’ve never been bothered about getting my boobs out on the beach – but, for me, going totally bare feels more than mischievous, it feels deliciously naughty – the sort of naughty that people would gossip about.

“Sophie’s gone completely off the rails on her gap year.  Nudist Beaches? Her reputation will be in tatters.  She’ll never get another job now”, is what I suspect my parents will think when they read this, but hopefully be sensible enough to avoid vocalising out loud.

Sunbathing bare, to me, is so very different from merely skinny dipping – choosing to nonchalantly lounge around in the buff all day on the beach strikes me as the louche sort of thing that Europeans do very well but us buttoned up Brits do not.

Therefore in the spirit of my Eternity Leave along with embracing, nay rejoicing in my European residency while I still get to claim EU citizenship, I decided it was an adventure worth trying and that I would Give It A Go.

Casting my mind back, I believe the last time I voluntarily took off all my clothes and merrily cavorted around naked in front of a group of people before running into the sea, was when I was playing strip Twister on the front lawn of our house in Aberdovey with my friends.

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That was when I was in my mid twenties.  All I remember was the next day someone’s boxers were hanging from the lampshade in the sitting room, which I hadn’t spotted when I was clearing up the aftermath of the impromptu party, but my parents immediately did when they arrived later that afternoon.

I do recall getting into an awful lot of bother over that, along with the fact that half of Poppa Neary’s ‘good’ wine had mysteriously evaporated…

So that was a circa twenty years ago, and whilst I didn’t plan to “cavort” naked on the beach here, let alone play Twister, it certainly felt like going bare on the beach was somewhat overdue, except this time I wouldn’t be drunk and I would be alone (apart from Tiggy) and not with friends.

Going it alone was a slightly double edged sword.  I didn’t feel emboldened enough to say to any of my (mainly male) friends, hey come hang out on the beach with me whilst I try out this nude sunbathing thing.  Plus it felt like dragging someone else along was somehow cheating – this was an achievement to be accomplished on one’s own.

But then being alone was a slightly unnerving and intimidating thought.  I certainly felt vulnerable, and with no one to chat to would my ultimate fear of a naked human being coming up and actually attempting to converse materialise?

Tiggy, I concluded, would be my protector.  Mirrored sunglasses would act as our deflectors.

I approached our excursion with military precision.   The weather and wind direction charts were poured over (no-one needs their nether regions exfoliated by wind-blown sand), friends were consulted for a second opinion and it was determined that Saturday looked promising – no clouds, low wind and lots of lovely sunshine all day long.

Indeed, Saturday dawned bright and clear as promised, time to put the plan into action.  I slowly and meticulously pre-applied factor 50 to my never-previously-exposed-parts and got dressed.  I methodically quadruple checked my bag and panic-packed an emergency back up pair of sunnies.  I got undressed and re-applied even more cream.  And then, finding nothing else to procrastinate over, Tiggy and I eventually hit the road.

Take nothing but memories

The route to Bolonia was stunning, winding along a quiet road for 7k, it really was a peach of a drive, spoiled only by the kamikaze, death-wish local drivers who nailed overtaking on blind corners with a faith I’ve never before encountered.  Rolling hills and lush, green grass stretched to the horizon, we saw herd after herd of baby goats bounding along playfully before Bolonia beach came into view and arced round in a graceful curve – Roman ruins at one end and nudist beaches off the beaten track at the other.

We followed the road east along the beach until it ran out and parked The Beast by the gate to the coastal path, where he could keep a lookout and stand guard until we returned.

Where the bear ones roam

We walked along the coastal path for about a mile – it was simply breathtaking, both rugged and inhospitable yet peaceful and tranquil and, apart from the odd military lookout from WWII, untouched by human hand.

It’s hard to imagine that this coast once witnessed the shock and awe of the combined forces of the thirty three ships of the mighty Spanish Armada and French Navy take on and lose to the invincible nautical battle strategy of Lord Nelson and a smaller British fleet of only twenty seven ships.

Nelson may have sacrificed his life onboard HMS Victory some two hundred years ago, but not a single British ship was sunk, while the Spanish-Franco fleet suffered a crucifying and crippling loss of twenty two.  I wondered how many brave souls and spirits had been sacrificed within these waters and now lie, stories and horrors untold, in the shadows and shallows of this vast stretch of sea.

We wandered round cove after cove on a headland carpeted with wild flowers, the air delightfully perfumed by the aroma of the pine trees above and, apart from the grazing cows and spirited song birds, without encountering another living thing.  Was I going to end up doing this in total solitude I pondered?

Tread softly - wild flowers

And then, on the next headland,  we spotted a man walking towards us.  He passed at a respectful distance and gave us a little wave.  One quick glimpse informed me he was sporting a sarong which didn’t look like he had anything on underneath – I concluded I was heading in the right direction.

We rounded that headland and there, down on the beach, I spotted no more than half a dozen bodies dotted around, already having made their nests for the day.  All were couples, no soloists.  ‘There’s safety in numbers’ I decided, and so I scanned the beach for a suitable spot for us.

Descending from the path to the beach, Tiggy sensed that something exciting was on the cards and was being particularly bouncy and boisterous, hurtling along at top speed and running up to show off her doggles and check out if fellow bathers were friend or foe.

The doggles have been an uncontested success but her peripheral vision is definitely now slightly skewif and I had a last minute flap about her mistaking someone’s schlonger for a sausage.  You may laugh, but once terriers latch onto something, it’s terribly hard to get them to let go.  Much to her distain then, it was back on the lead pretty sharpish and no more untethered exploring for her.

New balls please

I found what seemed to be a perfect spot – in the lee of some old, weathered, wooden fishing boats that had long since been discarded to naturally decompose.  With conviction, I took my towel out, I shook it and purposefully lay it down.

Tiggy, sensing some unusual, inherent weakness on my part, decided to take complete advantage and promptly lay bang slap in the middle of the towel, refusing to budge.  Ignoring her for the time being, I set about the task of undressing.

I had already decided before arriving that I would de-robe standing up and not half-heartedly and shamefacedly attempt to wriggle out of my clothes sitting down.  I may be a buttoned-up Brit, but I absolutely embody the quintessentially British bulldog mentality that if something is to be done, then it’s worth doing properly.

“Stand up straight, you’ve got this”, I told myself determinedly – I squared my shoulders and attempted a nonchalant stance that certainly did not convey the trepidation I felt.  I slid my t-shirt over my head and un-pinged my bikini top. Half way there!

Not permitting myself to pause, I promptly unbuckled my belt, took off my shorts, folded them neatly and placed them carefully in my bag along with my tops.  This was it. Time for the big reveal.  I stood back up and with a deep breath I pulled down my bikini bottoms with both hands in one smooth and swift movement.

Ta dah! For the first time in my life, I was standing totally, completely and utterly bare, in broad daylight, in public.  I stood there for a nano-second with my bikini bottoms dangling from my hand being gently buffeted by the breeze.

In my imagination, I whooped out loud and twirled them round my head in gleeful yet coquettish kind of victory dance, a sort of glorious combination of all the best bits of a “Carry On” Barbara Windsor mixed with the dignified burlesque of Dita Von Teese.

Thankfully for us all (especially my dignity), decorum and Britishness prevailed and I remained totally stationary.

With a nervous yet triumphant smile to myself, I glanced around and then, exhaling and shoving Tiggy out of the way with my foot, I sat down with a bit of a thud.

I started to cross my legs and then, with a gasp, realised that was absolutely not a position to be adopted for today, so hugging my knees to my chest instead, I put my hat on firmly, made sure my sunnies were secure and then rolled over, bottom up first of course.

Giggling to myself, I felt somewhat giddy.  The wind was both a bit tickly as well as chilly on my bottom and by my ribs where my bikini top would normally go.  And then the sun’s rays warmed my skin, the headiness subsided and it all felt really rather sublimely and delectably divine.

Tiggy got over her huff of having been ejected from pole position and plonked herself down beside me.   Contently snuffling, she stretched out sphinx like, and snuggled in for a snooze.

Tickling her ears in her special spot and cuddling her closely, waves of contentment and happiness washed over us both.

Choose happy. Live the life you love

After about forty five minutes of reading, I decided it was time to go for a dunk.  Plus I didn’t want my bottom to be burnt to a crisp.  “Poco a poco”, as they say here in Spain, was my strategy for browning my botty.

Skinny dipping doesn’t bother me in the slightest – so I strode out and immersed myself in the refreshing azure blue waters – I felt like I was in the setting of a Tom Ford perfume advert.  Swimming naked is invigorating, I love it, I think there must be something truly embryonic about the whole experience.

Floating along in the shallows I tried and failed to persuade Tiggy to come and join me, instead she teetered at the water’s edge and barked convincingly if she thought I was going in too deep and therefore in grave danger.  No one even took a second look at me as I ambled back to my spot.

It was time flip to bum side down and boob side up.  In doing so, I definitely felt more exposed and a tinge of self consciousness and self-doubt crept back in.  I suppose, if nothing else, face side up you can see more of what’s going on around you and there’s a greater chance of the dreaded eye contact and unwittingly encouraging unwanted human communication.

Tiggy, sensing she needed to be on watch, sat on my hand and kept lookout whilst I started to relax.  I pulled my hat down further on my face and let the sun heat up my chilly post-swim-skin.

The sun was hotter now, I was worried Tiggy would overheat and that I would start to sizzle.  It was time to call it a day and seek some shade, so not without a tinge of regret I got dressed and gathered my things.  Before leaving our secluded little spot I looked around to make sure the view was etched firmly in my memory.  I don’t think I could have chosen a more perfect spot for my first nudist experience.

With Tiggy chasing the odd butterfly and finding then immediately abandoning sticks along the way, we meandered back to the strong and sturdy sanctuary of The Beast.  We hopped in and carefully navigated home singing along to the melodic and harmonic sounds of Simon and Garfunkel.

Homeward bound
Back home, bare again and checking myself in the mirror once more, my newly bronzed bottom felt toasty and warm to the touch, yet thankfully and happily all my hitherto white bits had turned pale golden brown and not burnt.

It dawned on me then, that after all of that flapping and insecurity, all of that unnecessary procrastination and over-preparation, I had uttered not one word to a single person all day long.

Why is the idea of something so often nothing like the reality?  How do we know if we are going to like something or not unless we actually get out there and try it?

The only way to ensure failure is to not even try in the first place.  Perhaps we should all stop thinking about what might go wrong and, instead, think of what could go right.

Sometimes I worry about whittling my life away with not enough to show for it.  How’s this for a sobering wake up call;  before they were twenty five, Michaelangelo had created Pieta, Mark Zuckerberg was a billionaire and Keats was already dead.

“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did so.  So throw off the bowlines, sail away from safe harbour, catch the trade winds in your sails.  Explore.  Dream.  Go Bare.”

That’s my favourite quote from the masterful pen of Mark Twain.  I’ll leave it to you to decide which bit I edited.

Will I do it again, I hear you ponder?  Maybe, some day, should you wander round the fifth cove to the far east of Bolonia beach you might stumble across a little, bare, blonde English rose sporting a straw hat with pompoms, lying on a pink stripey towel with a small Jack Russell tucked in cosily alongside her – and that, most likely, will be us.

Should you see us, just smile and wave and on the off-chance that we’re feeling brave and not bashful, Tiggy might bounce over for a ball throw and I’ll give you a little, shy smile and a wave back as you walk by.

It's not the time in your life that counts, it's the life in your time

Choose happy, and remember, it’s not really the time in your life that counts, it’s the life in your time.  What are you waiting for?  Get out there and do whatever it is you’ve always wanted to do, but been too afraid to try.

Love, Sophie, Tiggy and The Beast X

 

 

 

 

All the gear, no idea: learning to kitesurf #LikeABoss

Let’s be clear – I absolutely love the water, I am a water baby, in a previous life I was possibly a dolphin and Finding Nemo is one of my favourite films ever.  I am a seriously ok sailor, a pretty competent long distance open-water swimmer, I can sort-of surf and I could windsurf (at a push, if required, under duress).  All of these require a reasonable level of strength, skill and stamina.

None of them, and I mean, none of them come close to how hard it is to master kitesurfing.  I keep being told that Tarifa one of the hardest places in the world to learn to kitesurf, but that doesn’t really help when you’re being washed up on the beach for the umpteenth time.

Kitesurfing how hard can it be

The wind here is so powerful (averaging 30kts) and the waves are so big (all the more so when you’re only 5ft 3″) with a strong current, that even getting into the water alone is quite a physical feat.   And all the while holding a not un-heavy board in one hand and flying a six or eight metre kite on the end of 25 metres of string with the other hand; a kite which ducks, dives and cartwheels around in the sky like a peregrine falcon on acid.

You then have to lie down in the water, keep the kite aloft with one hand, secure the board to your feet with the other, and stay afloat with waves breaking over your head.  Your eyes sting, half the sea goes up your nose and you still have to keep that bloody peregrine falcon under some semblance of control.

Gasping for air, spluttering and blinking furiously, the next stage is to power up the kite whilst you’re semi-submerged and generate enough power to propel you out of the water with a forward momentum, but not too much to send you flying.

Kitesurfing let's go

It’s is good job that I am a water baby, as I have been washed up on the beach face down, face up, head first, feet first, and if I didn’t have a wetsuit on, I’d probably have been washed up inside out too.

The internet is full of “hot babes” kitesurfing in string bikini bottoms and triangle tops – these surely must be either superglued in place or they’re merely click bait fodder.

There’s an awful lot to be said about what an empowering sport kitesurfing is for women, particularly as once mastered, it is a sport of skill and technique rather than mere brute strength and balls, but this is not a sport where one tends to look ones best, particularly when learning.  It’s definitely more drowned look than wet look – and let’s be honest here, a wetsuit is friend to few middle-aged females (and men too!).

Stoicism, though, is one’s friend when learning to kite.  As is pig headed determination and a smattering of tenacity.  And a massage.  And arnica.  And alcohol.

A major breakthrough today!  I rode for thirty metres to port and it was AMAZING!  And then a big gust came, the peregrine falcon puffed and yanked me into the air, dragging me about 20 metres along the water – leaving my board, which had turned turtle whilst smacking me in the shins for good measure, somewhere upwind behind me.

It was my first jump, my teacher said.  I’m really not sure I should repeat what I said.  I submarined to starboard.  It took me fifteen minutes to body drag to retrieve my board.  I have five new bruises and a little nick on the sole of my foot which is exasperatingly tender.

As one of my friends says, it is definitely character building.  I have got this.  I can do this.  I will own this.   Just please god, let it be soon…

Reassuringly, everyone I have met in the the kitesurfing community has been utterly helpful, supportive and lovely.  I have to believe this is because the learning curve is so high it weans out all the wankers along the way and thus the sport self selects only the very best of people.

Kitesurfing wankers need not apply
Tonight though, with tender arms, a bruised ego (and thighs), aching bones, half the sea still coming out of my nose and really attractive red eyes, I’m going to go out and get rip-roaringly drunk with my friends…because somedays there comes a time that, no matter what challenge or conundrum you’re facing, the answer is always ‘more wine please’.

And I will go to bed, utterly trolleyed, with a huge smile plastered across my face because this is the life I have chosen to live and I’m living a life I love.

Choose happy.  Love, Sophie, Tiggy & The Beast X

P.S: No, Tiggy doesn’t come kitesurfing, she stays at home and listens to the radio or has a playdate with her boyfriend, Filipo the boxer, who lives downstairs.  And The Beast is making lots of new friends too.  He’s particularly fond of this fire engine…

Vintage Land Rover series ii and fire engine

This is it, adventure awaits…

“Don’t cry because it’s over, smile because it happened.”

Dr Seuss

On a crisp and bright Monday morning six months ago, in a sun drenched office and in the very briefest of conversations, I was made redundant.  It was a total shock and completely out of the blue; one minute I was on a packed commuter train, running late for an early meeting, the next I was in an empty carriage homeward bound, more than a little dazed and wondering what on earth to do with myself for the rest of the day, let alone the coming weeks and months of my gardening leave.

The first week was taken care of as I spent most of it having a minor meltdown – panicking about what on earth to do next, especially as I was on the verge of signing up to a huge new mortgage to buy a very small mews house in Notting Hill.  I also really missed my team – they made a reasonably stressful job utterly delightful, and I hadn’t been able to say goodbye to any of them.  It was a bit like being dumped by a boyfriend and knowing he was still going to see all of your friends, all of the time, but without you.  My heart was tinged with sadness.

After a little over a week of wallowing in self pity, drinking lots of tea and fixating over motivational quotes on Instagram (which, let’s face it, simply gets rather dull and far too worthy after a while), I decided to take the bull by the horns and use this opportunity to completely change my life.  I just didn’t feel ready to throw myself back into the corporate world and all that it entailed, in fact I felt queasy at the mere thought of it.  Hello eternity leaveSometimes, I thought, you just have to throw everything up into the stars and see where fate determines you should land.  And lo and behold, the cards slowly started to move in my favour.  The headhunters I spoke to didn’t really have any enticing jobs on their books and citing Brexit, the buyers pulled out of my house.  This transpired to be the perfect turn of events, as being shackled to a huge mortgage would have scuppered any financial freedom I had and forced me into finding a meaty, salaried role as soon as my gardening leave was over.  So instead of selling my house, I rented it out and reassigned my stamp duty savings into my newly formed Adventure Fund.

Then came the next big question – if I wasn’t going to get another ‘big’ job then WTF should I actually do?   I had worked pretty much non-stop for the last 23 years. And I liked working, I was good at it, I’d always had jobs I’d really enjoyed and I liked earning a lot of money and spending it. Rightly or wrongly my job was an important part of who I was a person, it defined me. So, if I didn’t have a job, then who would I be? What would I stand for? Could my ego cope with not saying ‘I’m the CMO of…’ when asked?

An old personal trainer used to really wind me up by telling me many times over that “great things never come from inside your comfort zone”.  Oddly enough I never found it helpful to hear that when I was puce with exertion, my thighs screaming doing ‘only ten more’ reps.  But, with this in mind, I consciously chose to see my redundancy as the expiration date of my old life and the turning point to set my sails on a different course for my future.   I made myself a promise, that I would live a life worth living according to what was important to me, as opposed to merely making a living.

It only took fifteen trips to the tip, ten trips and countless boxes to the charity shop to de-clutter sixteen years of stuff from my home.  But hey, I had time on my hands to do it.  At one point, every dress in the Trinity Hospice shop window was one of mine, which filled me with a mix of pride, satisfaction and a tinge of regret (damn it, I wish I’d kept that Pucci dress).

I had a digital de-clutter too and, not without a heavy heart, unsubscribed from a plethora of marketing emails.  Bye-bye Matches Fashion, Net-A-Porter and J Crew,  hello budget.

I have had one self-indulgent splurge on a fully renovated 1969 Series IIa Land Rover, called The Beast due to the fact that he’s so heavy to park.  (Toned arms, it transpires, are an added side benefit of a two and a half ton landy with no power steering.)  I did a half-day mechanic course on his internal workings – I know where he needs water, oil and can locate the manual diesel pump and battery.  And I purchased curious sounding things like a bottle jack.  (Not that I intend to use any of my new found knowledge as, much to the relief of my course teacher, I have paid for comprehensive European breakdown cover.)
The Beast, proudly sporting a black and silver GB sticker on his bottom, feels safe – he can’t go more than 60mph and is remarkably easy to drive once underway, which is handy as we’ll be driving on the wrong side of the road for most of the year.

Sophie Tiggy and the Land Rover
So where to go and what to do? First stop, Tarifa, via ferry, Santander, Salamanca and Seville.  Why Tarifa? Well, I have friends there and I’m not yet quite brave enough to go somewhere where I don’t know anyone at all.  Plus, it’s simply lovely.

For the keen cartographers amongst you, Tarifa can be found at precisely 36 degrees latitude.   It’s a beautiful, old, Moorish walled town and is the southernmost point of Continental Europe, where the Mediterranean collides with the Atlantic, and looks across the Straits of Gibraltar to Africa.  The Costa Del Crime or “No Carbs Before Marbs” scene it is absolutely not.  It gets very, very, very windy and is the kitesurfing mecca of Europe.  And conquering kitesurfing is what I’m going to do.  There is a stunning, five mile long, sandy, crescent shaped beach for walking Tiggy, the restaurants are very dog friendly and a decent glass of Rioja costs a mere two euros.

It’s Einstein who said that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing, time and time again and expecting a different result.

Who am I to argue with such genius?   Making a big life change and walking away from the corporate world (particularly the salary) is a bit scary, but you know what’s even scarier?  Regret.

And what will I say now, when people ask me what I do?  Well, I’ve had six months of gardening leave to practise.  “I’m on eternity leave”, I shall reply, which is completely and utterly impossible to say without an enormous smile.
Sophie and Tiggy eternity leave
I hope you’ll enjoy reading about our adventures as much as we’ll enjoy living them.  For more pictures and fewer words, please do feel free to follow us on Instagram @sophielovespink

Love,

Sophie, Tiggy & The Beast X